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#11 (permalink) |
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Prob. had a customer they built one for, then decided to market them. Jeffco did the same thing, he build pro street transmissions, he had a customer want a reverse diff that could hold up to a busa, after the first one was done they started offering them to other people, now he sells a lot of them......
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I called them and they made boxes for a company that was previously using RPM boxes hence the mounting needed to be the same. They are built for lower HP engines so you would compare this box to the $1600 RPM, not the $2200 one. So the price difference is not as big as it might seem. I'm not sure if $1600 includes drive flanges from RPM, but $1500 does not with this one. So the price may be very comparable. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 2
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I want to introduce myself, My name is Tony and I am the owner of STaK 4x4. We are a manufacturer of off road transfer cases and drivetrain components primarily for the rock crawling and hobbyist market. Just some quick info on our FNR Box. As someone stated earlier, we were approached by a manufacturer of buggys who was looking for an alternative to the RPM Boxes, but wanted to use the same mounting points. We also designed around some other specific issues that they were dealing with. They wanted a 9:1 reduction, so that is what we gave them. We have the ability to change this to as high as 3.75:1. Our case is made of billet 6061 and all of our gears are alloy 8620 hardened to 58-60Rc. Our box was designed for up to 100HP, and seems to be handling more than that with our customers race version with a Hayabusa motor. We are currently looking for feedback from the buggy community as to what options (gear ratios, input shaft variables, CV Flanges, alternator, brakes etc...) that we need to implement to help out the consumers in this market.
On a different note, i am aware that some will think we knocked off an RPM box, and I can undestand that, we deal with this quite regularly ourselves, and can assure you we made every effort to seperate our box from the RPM box while still working with the customers design parameters. Thanks, Tony |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 570
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How heavy are the cars using the gearbox thus far? I am assuming there has already been chain driven use since you mentioned the busa powered car? Any more details on that car? Also, If there is some way you could implement a brake on the opposite side of the input shaft that would awesome. A 10" ish (or biggest you can fit) vented rotor and wilwood 4 piston caliper would provide excellent braking that is gear reduced. Just pick a common (off the shelf) rotor that fits. It sounds like overkill but gear reduced braking systems need to be pretty powerful to not warp up rotors and trash brake pads prematurely. Also on the input shaft side it would be nice to have bracket to mount a small alternator to. The input shaft keyway or spline would go all the way back to the box so the pulley to drive the alternator could be just inside the sprocket and chain setup. I would probably use a old chevy alternator with the internal voltage regulator. This is probably the most common alternator ever and is easy to wire in. Plus you can buy a aftermarket high amp version or just a stocker from the local autopart store that will all fit. Plus it has a external fan that will sit right next to the chain and might help keep the chains a little bit cooler. I would say a provision for a power steering pump too but I think if these new electric power steering setups that people here are trying workout, a alternator would fit the bill to power the steering/fans/fuel pump/lights/GPS/intercom/radio/fresh air pumper etc. Thats a bit to much to ask for out of the bike generators/alternators even if you aren't using all of that. Plus trying to keep a full size battery charged up.
If you have a cad drawing or dimensions of your gearbox, I can put it all in solidworks to better show you what I mean. I am willing to help because it is exactly what I want. I have this style of alternator laying around so I have the dimensions to get it put in there for you. Also, if you could put up pics and explain how the shifter setup works would be nice. One thing I didn't like about the RPM box was how much force it took to shift. It is really hard on cables. The one on my old car with the RPM broke while the new owner was test driving it. It really needs 2 control cables to push and pull from both sides to last. Last edited by standfast; 08-14-2008 at 12:14 AM. |
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