I have an axle problem

[odypilots]

I have a ATVR long travel Pilot. I tore the inner CV boot, so to replace it, you pull the inner
CV apart. The cup that the inner CV rides in has a retainer ring on the inside that sits in
a groove. To disassemble the inner CV, pop the ring out of the groove, and slide the bearings
out. My problem is the axle has been pivoting more than it was designed to, allowing the
axle shaft to hit the inside of the cup. This has mushroomed the metal next to the "ring in
groove" over the ring, trapping it in the groove. Any ideas how the release the ring? Will the
cup be OK to re-use? Will the dents in the axle shaft weaken it? I'll use limit straps to
prevent this in the future.

[nutnbolt2002]

I have always wondered about that. I use Cavalier axles on my buggy and was thinking about lathing the outer edge on a angle to give the axle a little more clearance.

[LiveWire]

I think you can chuck up the CV stub in the lathe and hold the shaft with an assembly that I do not know the name of. It goes on the ways and supports a shaft at three points around it. It does not spin, just gets greased up. Mike has one for his lathe. Once the assembly is supported, the mushroomed metal could be cut back.

[RickS.]

I think you need to somehow move your inner and outer cv flanges a little further apart. When I set up a cv rear I always make a provision to fine tune the distance between the cv cups.
If possible you should have the cv stars riding a little outboard in the joints. this allows you to run a little more angle and also pulls the axles out of the cups a little more. If the cups are too close together your axle will pinch the boot putting a small tear at the flange. disconnect your shocks and cycle the suspension up and down while moving the axle side to side. Rotate the axle also checking for binds. Find the point where the cv axle has the least side to side play. then adjust that play to a minimum.
It may just solve your problem.

[odypilots]

Thanks for the replies. I'm leaning toward taking it to a machine shop and just have it done. I'll see what they estimate, and go from there.

RickS., I don't think there's any way to adjust mine. I'll check the distances between flanges, one side to the other, because it seems only one side has an issue.

[Bugpac]

You may be able to adjust the length with the arm heims....If you havent got it done bring it over, i have a steady rest to for the lathe, I think you could just grind what is musroomed and remove the clip then clearanve the groove back out a bit....My estimate for you, Is a ice cold mountain dew...

[Bugpac]

Originally Posted by nutnbolt2002\";p=\&quot

I have always wondered about that. I use Cavalier axles on my buggy and was thinking about lathing the outer edge on a angle to give the axle a little more clearance.

I believ if you are hitting the edge of the cup, your joints are not going to last anyhow.....when at full droop the axle is the longest, it should barely be in the cp at that point, same as oem.....I to am running cavalier axles, well now they are heavily modified, but same cup and cvs....

[K-fab]

Dremel tool and a cut off wheel - just clean up the squished edges.

Inspect the base of the stub on the cv cup - look for cracks around where the stub and the cv cup join. *If you've been beating on the outer lip of the cup, there's a good chance it's stressed the stub.

You need to cut the upper shock mount tabs off the shock hoops and rotate them up about 1/4 - 1/2". *That will keep the axles from bottoming out in the cups and you won't need limit straps.

[boilermaker]

I would go with the Dremel method, but there is no way you can beat bugs offer. Also you can benefit from another persons close look over.

[odypilots]

I hadn't thought about checking where the stub joins the cup. Thanks!