Bike engine output shaft to U-joint adapter....

[dbiggs]

Since I'm fairly new to this site, I'm not sure if this has been covered here already or not

...anyway, I saw one of these on a dwarf race car powered by a GSXR 1100 engine....might make a neat option with a Subaru IRS diff.

Hawk Products Page

[nutz4sand]

Yah they have been around for a while and discussed a lot. It IS an easy quick and dependable way to get a rear end. IF.

If you can live with the gear ratio the rear end offers for your power nd weight or get it changed.

Plus no reverse UNLESS you buy a quaife inline reverse for driveshafts just for this type of application (about $1500.00 for the Quaife reverser)

Also The Subee rear can work but they are usually LONG. Plus there Joints do not have a lot of travel.

Ford makes IRS rears in a lot of the late model Thunderbirds that are aluminum cased (I got one here) and pretty light and the best part? Its already got German CV flanges on it!

For Merkurs (older cars that look like space ships have similir diffs but they are heavier (cast iron) but they also have the german cv flanges.

There are other rear ends that lend themselves to this to from other IRS cars.

[Little Bandit]

Or you can do like this guy did and mate it directly to a Subaru tranny

The best build in the world....the tribute

[nutz4sand]

Thats a hell of a neat things hes doing Little Bandit (I have been following that thread too) but he has done a LOT of EXTENSIVE work to get that together. Many (myself included) have told him to start making it a KIT! If he did it would sell. he wants to prove it will last first at least.

But I think it gets ways from simply turning the motor sideways. Bolting on a Dwarf car driveshaft adaptor and bolting a driveshaft from it to a rear IRS pig as Dbiggs was going at. He was going for simplicity I think?

[Little Bandit]

I just figured he hadn't seen it yet as he said he is fairly new to the site. Might stir up some more ideas.

If I were using a driveshaft to mount directly to a rear diff, I would make sure to try and get a 2-piece driveshaft that has a rubber coupling built in which acts as a cush drive. It probably adds to the length, but if you can fit it it is a great idea. It is used in a lot of the Locost Super7 cars and other bike engined kit cars. I don't know if it is used in any OEM applications or not.

Do a search on this website for TRT or Resilient Tube

LocostBuilders

as well as a drawing which gives the basic layout, although this is a UK mfg.

http://www.baileymorris.co.uk/pdfs/k...ece_shaft2.pdf