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#71 (permalink) |
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But wouldnt more links equal more friction on the rollers and pins? Less rollers and pins less friction?
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Being pushed to better yourself is never a bad thing. EL TORO sand car w/ intercooled TURBO 1397 Busa / Subaru STI diff. / cutting brakes |
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#72 (permalink) |
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I would think, and this is just totally guessing that more pieces would share more of the load, and work less between each piece...
__________________
Yrs of testing is not accomplished by owning something for yrs, You have to run it more than 20 laps 10 times a yr at the local 1/2 mile track. Sitting in the garage does not qualify as testing. |
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#73 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 419
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I think it is the relative motion between the links. For instance take your finger and press it on the desk. It doesn't heat up, but now rub it back and forth quickly a few times. I bet it gets a little warmer. Now rub it back and forth twice as many times. It gets warmer. I think it is the same with the chain. Regardless of the size of the chain, the load on it is the same, since it is limited by the torque that the engine is creating.
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#74 (permalink) |
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When the chain is engaged with the sprocket it is effected by the chordal action (polygon effect). During engagement one of the points of that polygon pushes, causing the chain to rise and then drop back down into it's engaged position. This actually causes speed variation in the chain. It slows down and speeds up at these engagement points. I think that this is where most of the heat originates. By increasing the number of teeth in the sprocket, the number of polygon points are increased and the chordal action is decreased.
Currently I am running a 16 tooth 630 which is the largest 630 I can fit due to interference with the clutch pushrod. I could fit a 20 tooth 530 chain but I suspect it would have to be dual chains to take the load. The question is if it will be enough of a change to make a difference in the chordal action and in turn the heat generated. I need to get this master link BS sorted it out or try to first because it is in fact our only area of issue afterall. |
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#76 (permalink) |
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I am curious what exactly the manufacturer's use for lube inside of the chain. I have read a little about it and it seems crucial to have a lubricate that maintains a good film. They talk a lot about the lube's ability to film up creating a cushion for the pin/bushing to float on.
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#77 (permalink) |
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I was talking to a chain manufacturer today about the problem at the masterlinks and he asked me if we were using a press fit master link or a slip fit. This is not referring to the rivet or clip securement it is how the sideplate actually slides onto the pins. He says a slip fit piece can create issues with o-rings ability to maintain a good seal when pushed to their limits and supposedly the press fit plates are much better. He also said that a slip fit plate will create a wink link in the chain that is up to 30% weaker in the chain and is why many people see failues there first.
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#80 (permalink) |
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I believe that Brian King uses one piece chains and recommends to his customers that they acquire the tool (rivet master?).
I looked at the Rorty in my garage that I'm working on and this discussion ultimately should help with my project to repower from CBR1000 to a Hayabusa. Part of the project includes lowering the RPM an inch or so and tilting it back to get a longer chain. Right now it has 24 links and that seems about 10 or 15 links short. The chain seems to not ride perfectly centered on the RPM sprocket so I'm curious to know if yours rides perfectly centered or has a slight, unavoidable favor to one side or the other. |
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