Chain Heat Testing

[nutz4sand]

Vortex tubes take a lot of volume. The compressor alone to feed one continuously would be large. And consume a lot of power in itself.

A motor driven (either electric or the buggy motor) powering a centrifgal type fan is likely the only way to move any good amount of air without a harse weight or power draw penalty.

[Bullnerd]

Pull one of the spark plugs and run a tube from the head to the chain.

[standfast]

Originally Posted by Bullnerd

Pull one of the spark plugs and run a tube from the head to the chain.

LMAO! Probably won't have enough power to have chain issues with just the plug pulled.

[arrowhead]

Howdy

I started to change my chain on Fri but discovered it was only the master that was worn the chain felt and looked fine so I just replaced the master.

Now I'm thinking of drilling the master pins so I can lube them with a needle greaser similar to the nose sprocket on a chain saw

Anyone have any experience with this?

The masters are so difficult to lube on assembly

Dale

[standfast]

I can't figure out why it's the master's that are giving the problems for sure but I am assuming you can't really lube them as good during assembly. Is there a technique for doing this? Maybe I am just doing something wrong? The rest of our chains that have failed have looked fine. It's just the master's and sometimes the links next to if you wait too long and the heat moves over after the rings are burnt up.

[nutz4sand]

I don't know but am just thinking out loud here.

Even those who say they lube the master well it still gets hotter.

I wonder is this the same on a none O-ring chain? I wonder is the O-ring master link squeezing the o rings tighter when its assembled VS the rest of the chains machine riveted links? With more friction from tighter squeezing it would get hotter. Not sure if thats causing this differance though?

Might try a heat camera test like this (unloaded/no load of course) with NO O-rings on the master just for a quick test. Might be not it of course. But good to eliminate any potential ways its generating the heat. Just to know.

[arrowhead]

I just have a hrd time getting a lot of lube in the pin tubes although I only had one pin worn bad but I want to drill the center of the master pins and then cross drill them so I can lube them once a month without disassembly so I can really fill the area.

I will use a 1/32 bit so it will not weaken the pin

Dale

[stuartbulgaria]

When i had my large engined road bikes and quads, i used a divice called a scott oiler witch applied chain lube automaticly. it was ajustable (the amount it applied) and worked off the bikes vacume. In my opinion it did make the chains/sprokets last a lot longer. I was wondering if it would help on the buggy applications and would it reduce the heat. my 530 chain, snapped the other day (on the master link) after probably 40 miles of not very agressive use.

[standfast]

I made a gravity fed oiler from my last race but it made a mess. It was dropping every 15 seconds or so. It took me 3 hours to clean the car. It did work well though. The chain was fine.

Arrowhead, what kind of chain are you using?

[arrowhead]

I'm using Oring 630 so it is impossible to lube the pins but I use PJ1 Black label on the outer chain every run (approx 40 miles) and the rest of the chain is in great shape after 950 hard sand miles.

But I really feel the blower is saving my ass cause it wouldn't go 100 miles running it the way we do

Dale