Chain Heat Testing

[standfast]

I have no idea why that the failures are originating near the master link first. I assume it's from not being able to assemble that link as perfect as the rest of the factory assembled ones. I put tons of lube in and even started using rivet links to see what that would do. My chain is 52 links. The one that is on there right now is a DID 630 0-ring chain. The sprockets are both 16 tooth 630. 4.22" major diameter. Can't go any bigger than that.

This is what will fit on the CS for a ZX14. I think a busa is slightly more limited but close.

16T 630
20T 530
25T 428

Current decision is to try dual 428's, dual 530's, or dual 520's.

Or maybe try to get a factory assembled 52 link 630 lol. I wonder if they could get me one to see how it would last with no masterlink. Does anyone do that? Chain is still gonna get hotter than it should be though.

[busasandrail]

Originally Posted by dunerocket

I don't belive they do. However you can buy o-rings of different materials that would fit.

Are you thinking the master link o-rings are failing? (if its on the video I cant upload to view it)

[dunerocket]

What about a water bath treated with a corrosion inhibitor (anitfreeze, water wetter, CNC machine coolant...)? Don't make it a completely closed system. Something like the chain cleaning tool for mountian bikes.

Park Tool Website

The case is split and has a sponge wiper to keep the fluid in the basin. It wouldn't be as clean as a completely sealed system, but would be easier to implement.

[LiveWire]

Originally Posted by standfast

I have no idea why that the failures are originating near the master link first. I assume it's from not being able to assemble that link as perfect as the rest of the factory assembled ones. I put tons of lube in and even started using rivet links to see what that would do. My chain is 52 links. The one that is on there right now is a DID 630 0-ring chain. The sprockets are both 16 tooth 630. 4.22" major diameter. Can't go any bigger than that.

This is what will fit on the CS for a ZX14. I think a busa is slightly more limited but close.

16T 630
20T 530
25T 428

Current decision is to try dual 428's, dual 530's, or dual 520's.

Or maybe try to get a factory assembled 52 link 630 lol. I wonder if they could get me one to see how it would last with no masterlink. Does anyone do that? Chain is still gonna get hotter than it should be though.

Do you have any smaller sprockets handy to repeat the test just for comparison?

[standfast]

No, I just have those sprockets right now. Well actually I have a smaller sprocket that will go on the driven but that won't show much.

[standfast]

Originally Posted by dunerocket

What about a water bath treated with a corrosion inhibitor (anitfreeze, water wetter, CNC machine coolant...)? Don't make it a completely closed system. Something like the chain cleaning tool for mountian bikes.

Park Tool Website

The case is split and has a sponge wiper to keep the fluid in the basin. It wouldn't be as clean as a completely sealed system, but would be easier to implement.

Possibly. ALOT of heat transfer will happen with the addition of a coolant or lubricant but I am kinda of thinking more in terms of preventing excess heat build up in the first place.

[LiveWire]

Originally Posted by standfast

No, I just have those sprockets right now. Well actually I have a smaller sprocket that will go on the driven but that won't show much.

Per an article that was recently posted, the increased chain speed from a larger drive sprocket will cause increased load on the chain from the centrifugal force on it. That increase is exponential and the decrease from the chain not having to bend as much is linear. So after a certain point, larger is worse than smaller. I am just curious if the smaller drive sprocket would actually show a lower temperature despite what is commonly thought.

[LiveWire]

Originally Posted by standfast

Possibly. ALOT of heat transfer will happen with the addition of a coolant or lubricant but I am kinda of thinking more in terms of preventing excess heat build up in the first place.

I agree. Reducing the generated heat means you would be putting more horsepower to the ground.

[nutz4sand]

Originally Posted by pwerwagn

The other thing is, there is a long period (3 minutes?) where the chain stays relatively cool, and then within 20-30 seconds the heat rises exponentially and then settles. Something is going on there.--Jeff

I am wondering if this may be from motor heat starting to enter from the engine itself VIA the front sprocket? Was the test started with a cold motor?

Still DL-ing the video. (I love dialup...)

[standfast]

Centrifigul force is another good reason to go down to dual chains that are lighter. Individually, you have less force due to less weight.