Hayabusa radiator,fan, and cooling questions

[dlisabeth]

Originally Posted by busasandrail\";p=\&quot

You dont want to hook it to the radiator cap/neck because it will not allow the over flow to work properly. The little hose coming off the radiator cap/neck should go to a overflow/recovery bottle. And you diffently dont want to put a tee in the line because the line coming off the thermostat housing is under pressure which will blow fluid out of any thing its hook to.
This might be why your overheating because when the motor gets hot the excess pressure/water is being blown out the line hooked to the thermostat housing. Basicly leaking/blowning all of the coolant out.

This statement helped very much, as soon as I read it a light went on in my head. *I don't know why I didn't realize what was happening. *By using a tee in the overflow line I was actually pressurizing this line and the overflow tank. *I don't belive this is why the motor was running so hot but it is definitely why there was coolant coming out of the overflow tank. *What I really need to do is get a bung added to the tank on the radiator for the bleed hose off of the water neck to attach to. *

Hopefully the new fans and oil cooler will solve the cooling issue and re routing these hoses will solve the overflow problem.

Where is everyone else running their temp sensor and thermo-switch?

[busasandrail]

Being that Im not using the Thermostat housing bypass hose on my rail I cut off, drilled, and tapped the bung on the thermostat housing to accept a 1/8 npt temp sensor. *This gives me the temp. leaving the motor right after the *thermostat.
There are also a few places to get an adapter that replaces a head plug that will allow you to use a standard temp sensor. I think heads up performance sells them....I think.

Dlisabeth could you post some pics of how your radiator is setup in the rail....Mine is behind the passanger seat downlow. I am having issues with my radiator leaking. It keeps leaking around the tubes on the end caps where they are braze welded. Ive tried quite a few different mounting configurations but still have a problem with leaks..... maybe its just cheap radiators or maybe its the way Im mounting it....

[Gene]

Timely thread indeed. Since I am having hard coolant lines made is there a schematic? I have two issues that come to mind: 1. purging air (high point vent) and, 2/ stubby port off the thermostat housing.

System high point is interesting too. With my car the high point is the radiator cap - but I need to measure. The overflow tank is lower be a few inches. Will I die?

[busasandrail]

IMO Gene if your radiator cap is the high point the thermostat housing bypass line isn't needed because the big return line will work as the air purge...


edit: I'm not convinced the bypass is even needed at all. To me it seems really redundant.

[Rorty]

With an unsealed system, the rad cap being the high-point is ideal.

The lower-mounted OF tank will work fine. Just make sure the OF hose extends to within about 1/4" from the bottom of the tank; that way the radiator will be self-filling as it cools without sucking up any crud.

[Glamisman]

I have a single seat Short Sand Cars mini long travel with a stock busa and a Griffon Radiator directly behind the seat, more than likely the same set up as you except I had three aluminum bungs welded into the side tanks. On the left side just above the lower radiator hose is one which holds the fan switch and the other 2 are on the inlet side slightly below the inlet hose, one is for the coolant temp sensor for the gauge and the other is for the sensor for the motor.

When it is hot, 90+ in the dunes and I run it hard the temp according to the gauge is around 225 - 230 and the fan cycles. My experience is that the coolant temp gauge never lasts more than 2 seasons due to the all of the vibration. I use it as more of an go no-go indicator than a temp gauge. What I mean by this is that I have the gauge installed so that when the coolant temp is in the 220-230 range the needle points straight up so that all I have to do is glance at it while duning to know what is going on, straight up everything is fine, 45 degrees to the right she is too hot time to cool the motor off.

I am curious if anyone here has any experience with the after market super coolants (water wetter etc.) *and if they really lower the cooling temps 20 degrees.

[greasemnky]

Hopefully not off topic, has anyone had any luck with any of the coolant additives that are supposed to help keep temps down? I know pep boys/murrays etc all sell "ICE" products that are supposed to lower collant temps 10-20 degrees.

Awe crap, just saw Glamisman posted the same damn thing. Awe well, this is for 50 LOL No longer a noob!

[masterfabr]

Water wetter lowered mine about 10 degrees.That was with no antifreeze.That gives the most improvement.Antifreeze mixture will give less improvement.The trouble with that is that you do not get the higher boiling point that antifreeze gives you.I quit using it.It also makes a mess when spilled or puked out.

[Rorty]

I always run some form of additive whether it's achohol based or contains some type of surfactant. They reduce the liklihood of air bubbles and cavitation. Cavitation is a real problem at the high RPM these bike engines reach; granted the engines are much smoother die castings than the rough sand-cast car engine blocks, but even so, it's always wise to include a coolant additive.

If the coolant spews, it would be wiser to address the overheating problem than exacerbate it by ommitting the coolant additive!

[masterfabr]

It even sux when draining it out.I'd rather run antifreeze than any of the other additives and since the additives have reduced greatly *benefit * *when mixed with antifreeze *I'd rather just run the antifreeze at 30% and get the benefit of corrosion protection along with higher boiling point.