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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: DOWN UNDER
Posts: 56
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I'm using a yamaha FZR1000 engine that is both water and oil cooled.
To save having to mount both a radiator and an oil cooler I'm looking at using a small car radiator from an auto so it has an internal oil cooler. Any body ever done this??? There are three problems I can see 1. when the engine is off, no oil pressure so the oil will drain back into the sump.(oil fittings in the rad are at the bottom) 2. when started all the oil being in the sump could cause internal motor damage. 3. delay between start up and oil being pumped back through the system will mean the engine runs without the benifit of lube for a brief time. Possible cures. 1. run the oil line up higher than the top of the cooler so oil is trapped in the cooler when engine is stopped. but the extra height may mean I loose some oil pressure. 2.oil thermostat so on start up oil bypasses cooler and goes straight back to motor. All the oil thermo's I've seen allow 90%back to motor and 10%to fill and pressurize the cooler till the motor gets upto temp then allow all the oil through the cooler. 3.Electric solenoids on inlet and outlet activated by an oil pressure switch on the motor outlet. Start motor pressure switch open the soleniod allowing the oil to flow through the cooler- Motor stops, no pressure solenoids close trapping oil in the cooler. Warning lights wired to each solenoid. 4. Pressure valve on inlet/outlet to open when motor runs- close when motor is off. Any suggestions or experiences of using car radiators with internal oil cooler would help. *[smilie=banghead.gif]
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#3 (permalink) |
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Is the motor wet sump or dry sump? I don't think that the oil pressure would be that much higher than the trans fluid. But they make oil coolers that run piggy-back on the radiator, so you wouldn't have to find frame space elsewhere on the frame work, I've never tryed this so it's just a guess
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: DOWN UNDER
Posts: 56
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wet sump.
I could mount a seperate oil cooler piggy back style. Does it matter which direction the inlet/outlet face - up-down-out the side?
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They say that if you play a Microsoft CD backwards, it plays Satanic music. That’s nothing. If you play it forward it installs Vista! |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Vendor
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,401
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Quote:
Most modern bikes have very efficient oil pumps and with synthetic oil, there's no chance of engine damage even if the engine has been left standing for a while. A cooler can be mounted upwards, downwards, on its side or whatever – positioning is of more importance and is something worth spending a little time contemplating. Obviously the oil cooler requires a good through put of cool air to function, but if the cooler is placed in an open location (but within the confines of the chassis), then it stands a fair chance of being clogged with roost from other buggies. A good location is right in front of the radiator where it should be fairly well protected and as long as it's virtually touching the rad, there will be no air turbulence between the two and the heated air from the oil cooler will have next to no effect on the radiator's performance. Don't let the two coolers actually touch as harmonics in the chassis could easily lead to ruptured cooling tubes. When mounting oil coolers or electric fans to radiators, there are proprietary plastic fittings that pass through the rad's fins and often come with new rads, but if purchasing them as a separate kit, they're expensive for what they are. I use ordinary 6mm (1/4") cable ties (tie wraps?) and some old plastic oil bottles (the thicker ones) which perform the same function. I split an oil bottle open and cut eight 25mm (1.0") circles with a wad punch (scissors will do) and punch a 6mm hole in the centre of the discs. Next I cut the heads off four of the cable ties and throw the tie parts away. Support the fan/oil cooler where you want it making sure there is some insulation between them and the rad (several more plastic discs can work). Thread the points of four cable ties through four of the plastic discs and thread each tie through the rad and fan/cooler. Slip the remaining discs over the ends of the cable ties at the back of the fan/cooler and then slide the four cable tie heads down the ties and snug them against the plastic discs. Voilà! Another alternative is the very efficient Laminova cooler which combines an inline air water to air cooler with an inline oil to air cooler and is extremely compact. Which ever route you take, make sure you have sufficient oil cooling as it's a much more efficient method of cooling the engine than a water to air radiator. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: DOWN UNDER
Posts: 56
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Thanks for the reply Rorty.
Based on your reply it's ok for the fittings to be at the bottom. So if I was to fit a car Radiator with in built oil cooler it should be Ok so long as the in built cooler was larger than what was originally fitted to the bike. 'IF' all of the oil drained from the cooler back into the motor could that cause damage to the motor on start up. *[smilie=big_explode.gif] I also plan on fitting as large as possible fan running constantly to keep everything cool
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#8 (permalink) | ||
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Vendor
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Australia
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Quote:
Quote:
I know, I know, what do you do? ![]() Well, I'd start with a "reasonable" sized fan and hook it up to a thermo fan switch in the radiator and ensure it's heat range matches the one in the bike's rad (the value should be given in the bike's workshop manual). |
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#9 (permalink) |
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In order for you to have drainback from a cooler you would have to have some way for air to get into the system. Unless you have a serious leak in one of your hoses this will not be a problem, actually at that point it would be the least of your worries.
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