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Controls and electrical Off-road buggy and sand rail steering, pedal assembly, shift assembly and wiring.

    

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Old 08-04-2008, 11:09 PM   #41 (permalink)

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Default Re: Batteries for the dunes

Ditto! I'd prefer to see di-electric grease tho but full syn is great also.
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:10 PM   #42 (permalink)

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Default Re: Batteries for the dunes

The way I wired my rail it doesn't use the frame as a ground. It has a cable that runs back to the battery from the grounding locations.....I use a #2 from the battery to the engine block, a #2 from the battery to a grounding point in the electrical box and then a #10 up to the front of the car for the gauges and switches. Basically everything has its own grounding path back to the battery.
I did it this way because I didnt want to scrap off the powder coating plus it eleminates the potential of a bad ground using your radiator or engine as a path for return.

And of course I did check the ground points for proper torque and contact.
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:22 PM   #43 (permalink)

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Default Re: Batteries for the dunes

Your problem is not likely a ground issue. Great info above but IMO not for this issue.
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:44 PM   #44 (permalink)

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Default Re: Batteries for the dunes

Ya, I figured I would throw it out there. Some people dont understand wiring or electricity very well so its always nice to help, even if its not relievent(sp?)or on subject.
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:23 AM   #45 (permalink)

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Default Re: Batteries for the dunes

Oh I agree completely but I didn't want him to go on a wild goose chase.Grounds are perhaps the biggest issue there is in electrical diagnosis.WHen checking for bad grounds measure the voltage drop in the connection.should be nearly zero.
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:28 AM   #46 (permalink)

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Default Re: Batteries for the dunes

ANd checking a joints resistance(ohms) is nearly useless in electrical diagnosis since there may be 0 ohms but be incapable of carrying even VERY low amps that are useless.
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Old 08-05-2008, 02:56 AM   #47 (permalink)

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Default Re: Batteries for the dunes

Busa, your problem sounds exactly like what I went through, but I was putting out approx. 14.7 to 14.8v at r's. I ran an Odyssey, it shorted out. Odyssey gave me a new one after checking it out thoroughly, which in turn shorted out. They wouldn't do the 3 strikes on me, so I got a deep cell motorcycle battery and run it with my lights on which drops the output voltage to about 13.5v.

I tried changing the regulator to no avail. The bad news is that I never found the cause of the high output voltage, but the good news is I've never shorted out another battery...and you can see me coming a mile away
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Old 08-05-2008, 02:15 PM   #48 (permalink)

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Default Re: Batteries for the dunes

I believe the proper output voltage for the regualtor unloaded is 14.5-14-8 vdc when reved to around 5000rpm's....Mine I believe is similiar. I think, well hope........ it just a bad battery. We'll soon see.
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Old 08-07-2008, 07:38 PM   #49 (permalink)

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Default Re: Batteries for the dunes

what about the amp draw on start up I have seen many cars and trucks kill a battery because of the starter drawing to many amps and shorting out the battery I don't have any idea what the odysseys will draw just something else to check
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Old 08-08-2008, 04:30 AM   #50 (permalink)

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Default Re: Batteries for the dunes

My uncle had a jeep liberty that just lost a battery. It wouldn't start after stopping for 5 minutes, and he said it showed 12.8 volts, but none with a load. It was the stock battery, so it is not that uncommon, and I am sure that is what happened to you.
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