Rat's nest.

[yummi]

Working on the rat's nest of the electrical system.

Two things struck me while I was pulling away yards and yards of electrical tape. First, I ran across what I figure must be a brake light sensor on the brake lines? Am I guessing that right? Picture is attached. Would it be a party foul just to have tail lights and no brake lights? I mean, heck, that has worked just fine for years on everything else I have ever owed that was not on the street. I don’t even think the tail lights on the car have the right bulbs / wiring for brake lights.

Now, to the rest of it. Having stripped enough tape to see what has been done it appears I may be better off just starting from ground zero than trying to figure the mess out. Really now, yellow wires hooked to blue to green? Some pink wires? Wires that have just been cut and left there? Oh so weird.

Question, the car has a real ignition switch – well, mostly real. It has a key. The starter function does not work, so, the prior owner put a switch next to the key. And looking at the back side of the switch, well, that is not ideal. Again, for you giggling pleasure, a picture is attached.

So, any thoughts as to which is better – a new ignition switch, or, a master kill, ignition switch and a momentary button?

Thanks in advance

[K-fab]

Master kill switch that interrupts the main 12v line and kills everything, an ignition switch (regular toggle switch or key switch) and a push button setup works very well.

Master kill switch should be easily accessed by anyone outside the car.

You can put the ignition switch in a place where it's not likely to get bumped and then put the button right by the steering wheel's 3 o'clock position, so all you have to do is reach out with your index finger and hit it.

That does indeed look like a brake light switch. As you say, you may as well run it.

When you go through and redo the wire harness, first get it all laid out and fit correctly. I always use a bunch of small zip ties for this. Make each bend and intersection fit cleanly against frame tubes and such.

Once you get it set up, make sure the car runs.

Then go back and start fixing all the splices - solder and heat shrink or use butt connectors that require heat to seal them.

Then make sure the car still runs.

Finally wrap the harness in e-tape and/or heat shrink.

And last, but definitely not least, make sure the car runs.

[masterfabr]

Pretty much ditto to the above.However on this buggy I'm using all the busa stock switches and controls.Should make for a very simple wiring setup.Just extend wires,de-activate tipover sensor and done! I'm mounting all the busa handlebar controls on a bar beneath the steering wheel.Hell I'm even going to use the horn and turn signals!

[yummi]

Thank you K-fab,

If I understand this, Sounds like I should make sure the car runs? That sounds like the voice of experience?

The external access on the master kill is something I would not have thought of. I guess brake lights can’t hurt. Heck, they might even stop somebody from hitting me. Butt connectors that require heat? In my travels I have not seen these. That sounds like a good idea. Where would I find them? (Lets assume a local type place, cause, if I order them online, I end up with too many or not enough). Again, thanks in advance.

BTY, while poking around, I came across one chart and one diagram, they will likely be helpful to me. Might be to others. The diagrams, etc are “courtesy” of Outback err, OutFRONT Motorsports.

[K-fab]

Originally Posted by yummi

Thank you K-fab,

If I understand this, Sounds like I should make sure the car runs? That sounds like the voice of experience?

I know nothing! (Why the hell won't this thing run? It did before I wrapped up the harness??? )

Originally Posted by yummi

The external access on the master kill is something I would not have thought of. I guess brake lights can’t hurt. Heck, they might even stop somebody from hitting me. Butt connectors that require heat? In my travels I have not seen these. That sounds like a good idea. Where would I find them? (Lets assume a local type place, cause, if I order them online, I end up with too many or not enough). Again, thanks in advance.

I get my stuff from WayTek Wire - Waytek Wire : Electrical Wiring Supplies & Industrial Products
They carry some killer connectors - I can't find the page in the site that shows them, though - they're probably in one of those stupid PDF files on the site.

You can get small quantities.

[busasandrail]

Originally Posted by masterfabr

Just extend wires,de-activate tipover sensor and done!

I agree with everything except for removing the tip over switch. IMO you should leave it hooked up and securely install it in your electrical box. Just make sure its installed correctly with the up arrow pointing up.
Mine has been installed since my car was built over three years ago and has never given me one false shut down. .

[masterfabr]

Lucky man! You need to drive a little harder. Just kidding! BUT get rid of it! I also left it in thinking that it would be a great safety feature if I got upside down.Well I found out on more than one occasion that it sux.Steep dune face and a little g force with a sharp turn at the bottom is all it takes. You will need to put a resistor in its place.I think 50-60K ohms is right.Someone correct me if I'm recalling incorrectly.

[busasandrail]

Originally Posted by masterfabr

Lucky man! You need to drive a little harder. Just kidding! BUT get rid of it! I also left it in thinking that it would be a great safety feature if I got upside down.Well I found out on more than one occasion that it sux.Steep dune face and a little g force with a sharp turn at the bottom is all it takes. You will need to put a resistor in its place.I think 50-60K ohms is right.Someone correct me if I'm recalling incorrectly.

If a drove any harder I would break my frame.......oh wait that all ready happened. Truthfully I havent ever had an issue with it being installed. But I guess theres always a first time. I think Ill just leave mine in unitl it becomes an issue.

And I believe the resister is 62-66k ohms.

[masterfabr]

I'm probably wrong but I don't think it's that critical. To tell for sure just check it with an ohm meter.

[busasandrail]

Originally Posted by masterfabr

I'm probably wrong but I don't think it's that critical. To tell for sure just check it with an ohm meter.

Probably not...I believe thats what the manual calls out for.