Power Steering.... Any one done it

[busasandrail]

I was told anything over 12 to 1 and youll be pushing the envelope of pump gas.

[yoshi]

Originally Posted by busasandrail\";p=\&quot

I was told anything over 12 to 1 and youll be pushing the envelope of pump gas.

i'm pretty sure it is 11 something:1, he said the same thing about pushing it. *I didn't want to run race fuel, I wanted a good reliable motor with more low and mid torque.........

[busasandrail]

I run mine at 12 to 1 give or take and use super w/o any problems....

And you builder might be a little optimistic with the hp numbers if he is only running 11 to 1...

[plkracer]

Why can the little bikes run 13.5 to one? Is that able with the smaller piston?

[masterfabr]

As for your correcting your info yoshi,I don't think so.All you have done is try to blow smoke by quoting all kind of numbers.It is obvious that yoshi has no idea what he will be able to accomplish with these "built" motors.You won't gain the kind of hp that he is talking about by lowering the compression on the N/A engines. Won't happen. A stock busa is 12:1 to start with.And yes you can and should run pump gas on the stocker and a plain ol' 1397 kit install.There is no provision for retarding the timing that will be necessary to reliably allow higher compression with pump gas tho.The addition of cams and port work to get those numbers will not increase low end tq.#'s.They will be possibly the same (or very close)as stockwith the 1397 kit and cams.The increased hp/tq rpm range WILL be raised not lowered.Hence ,back to the original question:will the engine be able to cope with the aadded load of the alternator and ps pump at idle.I still have no real idea and I am anxiously awaiting the results since I would also like to do the same. *Don't get me wrong,the 1397 will make more hp than stock for sure but not the 250-260 you did to say you would have to the GROUND.Building motors of any kind is my area of *expertise.I KNOW what makes hp.I spent years on the flow bench when I was racing 30 or so weeks a year for what seems like forever.I built many high output N/A engines that I would be confident to take to the track both for myself and many others in my area. In other words I don't fall for the *BS. Please post the dyno results for us when done.Somebody turn an exhaust fan.It's just too smoky in here.

[Reflex]

For what its worth, a guy in sweden built a N/A 1585cc hayabusa with every possible trick in the book, and built it to run on 98 octane (thats premium around here). It made 253hp and 206Nm, on 103 octane, at the crank. No +200hp at the wheels without turbo IMO.

[yoshi]

Originally Posted by masterfabr\";p=\&quot

As for your correcting your info yoshi,I don't think so.All you have done is try to blow smoke by quoting all kind of numbers.It is obvious that yoshi has no idea what he will be able to accomplish with these "built" motors.You won't gain the kind of hp that he is talking about by lowering the compression on the N/A engines. Won't happen. A stock busa is 12:1 to start with.And yes you can and should run pump gas on the stocker and a plain ol' 1397 kit install.There is no provision for retarding the timing that will be necessary to reliably allow higher compression with pump gas tho.The addition of cams and port work to get those numbers will not increase low end tq.#'s.They will be possibly the same (or very close)as stockwith the 1397 kit and cams.The increased hp/tq rpm range WILL be raised not lowered.Hence ,back to the original question:will the engine be able to cope with the aadded load of the alternator and ps pump at idle.I still have no real idea and I am anxiously awaiting the results since I would also like to do the same. *Don't get me wrong,the 1397 will make more hp than stock for sure but not the 250-260 you did to say you would have to the GROUND.Building motors of any kind is my area of *expertise.I KNOW what makes hp.I spent years on the flow bench when I was racing 30 or so weeks a year for what seems like forever.I built many high output N/A engines that I would be confident to take to the track both for myself and many others in my area. In other words I don't fall for the *BS. Please post the dyno results for us when done.Somebody turn an exhaust fan.It's just too smoky in here.

First off, *you obviously can't read, because yes I did correct my info, so don't say I didn't, all the numbers I have claimed are correct with different kits, I got 2 of the kits mixed up a bit, but said I was wrong, so I don't know what more you want. I offered to post dyno results as soon as I get them before this stuff even came up, so why would I lie about something intentionally that I knew would show to be way off when I posted the numbers. *Second, a stock busa is 11:1, thought you'd know that since building motors of ANY kind is your area of expertise, the '08 are 12.5:1, and need to be lowered to run a turbo.

I changed my numbers, as to what hp the kit i'm going with, will get, getting 225 to the rear wheels with what i'm doing is *possible, so i'm not blowing smoke.

I said I don't know a lot about motors, I just know what I am told by the people that do, and he gave me a few pages of paperwork with dyno numbers and parts breakdown as to what's in each kit, so since i'm not perfect like you master, I switched up the higher hp numbers for the unreliable kit for the second down kit because there was a lot of info there, but correcting myself doesn't seam to matter to you, I said I was wrong, I posted the numbers I will actually get, but you keep bringing up the old numbers when I have told you a couple times. I WAS WRONG, I admitted it, what more do you want..

I will call him today and get the exact compression ratio, I didn't think I was gonna be questioned about every little detail or I would have paid closer attention to everything, *I said build the best you can, and he told me what he could do, he said wouldn't be such a good idea for my use, so I said to give me the best he can that is reliable. I have not attempted to deceive anyone in anyway, I just got some numbers mixed up between what he can do and what I decided to have him do, and as I said, i'll post dyno numbers, and especially now everyone is expecting to see those numbers, so if I intentionally fabricate numbers to make it sound better than it will actually be, i'm gonna look like an ass, so trust me, I am not gonna say anything that I know is untrue.......

Originally Posted by Reflex\";p=\&quot

For what its worth, a guy in sweden built a N/A 1585cc hayabusa with every possible trick in the book, and built it to run on 98 octane (thats premium around here). It made 253hp and 206Nm, on 103 octane, at the crank. No +200hp at the wheels without turbo IMO.

this is the smallest kit he makes, puts almost 199 hp to the ground with a 1397 kit which I actually saw the dyno numbers for. *Doing the rest of the motor work for about 2k more gets around 225hp.....

[yoshi]

I just called him. *The 2 motors he's building are 13:1, and can still run on pump gas, he said the different exhaust cams he's running helps with the octane I can use or something (again, I don't understand most of this stuff, I just build the rails). *He's been building these motors for years and has an amazing reputation. *I know he's switching out cams, crank, springs, bearings, oil pump gear and other stuff. *I'll try to get over there today and get a list of everything and ratios and stuff so the info will be correct instead of mixing up some of the numbers. *He said the motors getting over 250 to the rear wheels have like 15:1 compression or more........

[masterfabr]

Damn you get pissy when you get pinned down. I never called you a liar.NEVER.You admit you misquoted your numbers and what you just posted is in line with what is commonly done for a reliable motor.So for a reliable motor *for output above approx 200 to the ground take or give a little a turbo is the way to go .I will admit that in the range of approx 200-250 crank hp is a gray area and probably better to stay N/A. IMO the motors you are currently having built for the intended purpose are best left N/A.I agree with you about the turbo being more complex and costly for those that can't fab their own let alone map the thing and most buyers will be better off staying N/A.Most will also be better off using a proven kit if they wish to turbo a busa.

[yoshi]

Originally Posted by Reflex\";p=\&quot

For what its worth, a guy in sweden built a N/A 1585cc hayabusa with every possible trick in the book, and built it to run on 98 octane (thats premium around here). It made 253hp and 206Nm, on 103 octane, at the crank. No +200hp at the wheels without turbo IMO.

also, there are kits available for built motors putting 170 to the rear wheels, just do some googeling.............