Lesson learned ... tip over/bank angle sensor

[rowycoracing]

Learned something new last week ... On both of my builds I just left the tip over sensor wired in. I figured if I ever rolled the buggy over having the switch there to cut the fuel off might not be such a bad idea. Last week I was driving my #2 buggy real hard on a motocross track. Some of the corners were the type that you power slide through in a full four wheel drift, but there were lots of cross bumps/ruts from the motorcycles that rocked you side to side pretty violently as well. Fun actually. But in doing all that I managed to trip the switch for the first time. Didn't turn the buggy over, just banged things around hard enough to trigger it. Well I always assumed that if it triggered by accident (like happened here) it would just trigger momentarily and then reset right away and other than maybe a brief sputter you'd keep right on going. Nope. What I learned was that on my engine (2003 GSXR 600) once it triggers it kills the fuel for good until turn the ignition off and then restart from scratch. So time to remove the tip over sensor. To do that you can not just jumper the wires directly, or just leave the circuit open. Some testing showed that the CPU is looking for 60k ohm in the circuit to allow the fuel pump to run. I ran several tests and found that 10k ohms up to 100k ohms will work OK. I had a couple of 30k ohm, 1 watt resistors laying around so I soldered one of those into each machine. I tested it (drove it) last night and this morning and it works fine. So on the GSXR (all of them I'd bet) get a resistor and solder it into the circuit if you want to bypass the bank angle sensor. Tim

[Gene]

Could you use some really tough goop to prevent it from moving?
Gene

[rowycoracing]

Hey Gene ... welcome back! Sure you can, I read a post somewhere where the guy said that he filled his full of silicone. Any pics from the trip? Sounds like a neat place.

[K-fab]

The fuel injection system on my Dez is off the R1 street bike - it also has the fall over and go dead thingy in it.

I pulled it apart to see if I could get around it (probably a resistance thing like rowyco said). It has a little magnet on a swinging arm that tells the thing all is good or all is bad. I left it stock for the moment, but I really like the idea of silicone in it. Great idea.

I guess if I ever have issues with it acting up or causing the Dez to die, I'll fill 'er up.

Thanks for the tip!

[hotwheels000]

I have also been told by the road racers to just silicone it and be done. No maintence issues then.

[headinclouds]

thank you for that post. That is exactly what I am going to be working on through the next month. The other thing is the ignition switch. How do those work, what are the ohms you need when bypassing it? I would like to not have to run a key.

Also, where can I find a write up on the whole wiring system for these bikes? Mine is a 2003 GSXR 750.

Thanks again!

[rowycoracing]

You can wire your own ignition and starter switches into the stock harness that goes to the key. Just wire them in directly per the diagram. Then wire a 100 to 1000 ohm resistor into the remaining anti-theft circuit. For my GSXR 600's and my CBR 1000rr I was able to get the wiring diagrams pretty easily on line through the respective crotch rocket forums. Reconfiguring the harness for buggy use is pretty easy with the diagram. Be sure to catch the clutch switch and the side stand switch too. The clutch switch is a permissive start deal (ie it won't crank unless the CPU thinks the clutch is in). The side stand switch is permissive for shifting (ie it will start and run in neutral but the CPU will kill the fuel pump if it thinks the side stand is down when you try to put it into any gear). Jumper them both. Some say they put a hidden switch in the side stand circuit and use that as an anti-theft device. Tim

[headinclouds]

very good. knowledge is power, and I feel like I am going to a mental gym and lifting weights with some built people!

How can I get a diagram of all the other wires I can cut off the whole harness?

[Bugpac]

on my harness, i am actually gonna do everything to make it run first, resistors etc, then i am gonna cut lengthen etc.....

[K-fab]

Originally Posted by headinclouds

knowledge is power, and I feel like I am going to a mental gym and lifting weights with some built people!

LOL!!! That's one of the best comments I've seen in a long time.

Originally Posted by headinclouds

How can I get a diagram of all the other wires I can cut off the whole harness?

You should probably just go get a Service Manual from Suzuki for the bike the engine came from. It's probaby a good idea to have the Service Manual anyhow - so if/when you have any problems with the engine, you can figure out how to fix 'em.

There should be a fully color coded layout of the bike's wiring in the service manual. A lot of it will be self explanitory as to what can be removed just by studying the diagram.

Many times components (such as lights, signals and such) are on their own loom that plugs into the main harness - easy to remove and shouldn't cause issues with the ECU.

Sometimes it's pretty tricky figuring out exactly what can and can't stay - so read each component's section carefully.

A lot of times you can figure out how to bypass a particular circuit by reading the range a component must be in. An example is an oil level sensor in my car - Yamaha RX1 sled engine with R1 fuel injection.

I had to trick the R1's ECU into thinking the RX1's sender was the R1's by changing resistance (inserting a resistor) across the sensing leads. Never would have figured it out if I hadn't had the manual for both machines.

Took the Service manuals to make this:


look like this:


If you're really into making everything work well, then take your time - get the proper connectors and tools to do the job.

Remember, the more planning and layout work you do, the better it all comes out. Take your time and work on laying out all your wires before you actually start cutting and such.

A few things to follow:

Don't use electrical tape to cover connections - solder and heat shrink.
I don't use electrical tape anywhere except to hold the wires together before I wrap them in heat shrink...
Try not to extend wires, replace them with the correct length wire instead.
Make sure that all looms have the ability to move a bit - at least near the ends of the looms where they go into components or connectors.
Any time you cut a wire - especially when splicing - you open the wire to corrosion. Solder the connection, cover the joint with di-electric grease and then cover w/heat shrink.
Cover each loom with heat shrink from end to end - leave it about 2" from each end of the loom - lets the wires move around w/o stress. Make sure stuff can move a bit or it will vibrate itself apart.
Use a silver sharpie and write a description of each loom on the heat shrink before you shrink it.


Packard's Weather Pack and Metri-Pack connectors are pricy, but well worth it - I get mine from [url=http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L0B27246958508200B3DB072+M37+ENG :3e7qvttl]Waytec[/url:3e7qvttl]
They are water-resistant, the pins are stress relieving type - they clamp on the bare wire and also hold onto the insulation. They are easy to assemble and they just plain work well.