Thread: R1 Wiring Help

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    R1 Wiring Help
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    So Im attempting to modify my harness for use in a offroad car. It is a 05 R1. I am trying to modifiy the harness a little as possible, atleast at first, to get the car running. I will probably cut out all the un-needed stuff eventually. I will be using the stock gauges, but will not be using the stock fuel pump. Here is what I have done so far:

    RTVed the TIP sensor.
    Bypassed the Side Stand switch (connected the two wires)
    Bypassed the Clutch Switch (connected the two wires)
    Bypassed the EXUP (Graves EXUP Eliminator)
    Bypassed the Stop/Run switch (connected the two wires)

    I am now trying to figure out how to wire up a Ignition switch. I dont have the stock key switch. I just want to do a Toggle. I have a wiring diagram, and know that power feeds in on one wire, and out to 3 wires when the IGN is on. What I dont know, is wither or not there is a antitheft feature in the stock switch, and if so, how do I bypass. I believe there is, and I need to install a resistor in the wire to the ECU, but Im not sure, and I dont know what resistor and or wire to use.

    Wiring diagram shows Battery + coming into the switch via Red wire.
    Power leaving the switch on Brown/Blue to 3 Fuses, IGN, Signal, Headlight.
    Power leaving the switch on Blue/Yellow to Starting circuit cut-off relay, and clutch switch.
    Power leaving the switch on Blue/Black to the ECU

    I also am wondering if just bypassing the stop/run switch is ok? I would be killing the the motor by switching off the main Ignition switch.

    Thanks for your help guys.
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    Re: R1 Wiring Help
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    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    I have a PDF file of the wire diagram and all the descriptions to the components. It's in another computer, though.

    If there's any way that you can upload a picture of the diagram and component listing, say in bmp or jpg format, I'll be happy to attempt to solve some of the problems you have.

    Been there, done that - just a long time ago.

    Yes, you can bypass the kill switch.

    The leads out of the key switch - are they all switched? Can't recall. If so, then all you'll need is a common input and output. Can't say either way on the anti-theft setup. I had a key.

    I believe that you can rid yourself of the power to the clutch switch and directly ground (or is it run power to? - once again, can't recall) the ECU, eliminating the circuit completely.

    EFI engine, right?
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    Re: R1 Wiring Help
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    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    BTW - welcome to the site.
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    Re: R1 Wiring Help
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    Thanks in advance for the help!



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    Re: R1 Wiring Help
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    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    AH!!! There it is!

    This is something that many on this site have been looking for.

    THANK YOU!

    I'll dig around here in a while and get back to you.
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    Re: R1 Wiring Help
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    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Okay, here we go.

    I'm not sure if the bike setup has a security key or not. If it does, as you stated, there'll be a resistor that needs to be installed somewhere.

    Coming off the ignition switch (left side of the pic, Item #1), the wire on the left side (funky brown/pink with blue dots) you can remove everything that's attached to it below the first junction that leads to Fuse #73. That pretty much rids the harness of all lighting - signals, brakes, head.

    You can also use it to power a circuit if you'd like.

    It has two switches for brake activation #52 & 69 (easy enough to remove one of them - they're tied together as it is. - I'd remove the handlebar switch #69.) Use a pressure switch in your brake system and sub that for either of the harness switches and tada, brake light harness. Use the line out as a relay activator to keep the load out of the bike's harness.

    It's also nice to set up a system that utilizes the light circuit. I used the line off the switch to power a relay that activated the car's wire harness when I did it. That way the bike harness just acts as a signal and doesn't carry any load. Set up right, you can have the high beam indicator illuminate when you turn on something like a light bar.

    The blue and yellow line off the switch. I remember having to deal with that one a bit - the diodes were an issue at first??? I want to say that I finally ended up just running it into the spot where the black with yellow dots line (two to the left of the blue/yellow) goes in. It pretty much completes the power circuit via the clutch switch, so just jump past that whole mess all together.

    Obviously the power line to the ECU needs to be there. That's what fires up the brain when you turn on the system.

    So a switch that activates all three lines will be needed, but not all the crap attached to those lines needs to stay if you're not needing any of it.

    If I were you, I'd leave in things like the light harness, just so you have the ability to expand later w/o having to go back in and redo it all. The stuff's already there, doesn't take up much room and it's easy enough to just wrap up all the loose stuff.
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    Re: R1 Wiring Help
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    Thanks alot for your insight. I just need to figure out if the 05 R1 indeed does have to have a resistor, and where it would go. I found instructions for a GSXR with resistor info, that someone said they used to do the same thing to a R1, so I guess Ill try that.

    I did have some other questions about the stock wiring. Do you think it would be ok/wise to use the stock wiring and relays to power my Not stock Fuel pump and Fan? It will be a Bosch style pump, and the stock rhino fan (not very large/powerful)

    Thanks again
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    Re: R1 Wiring Help
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    Keeper of the Asylum K-fab's Avatar
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    Use the stock harness and replace the stock relays with a regular style (automotive) relay. The relays require very little power to activate.

    The stock relays can probably run the fan. I would imagine the fans between the two machines are very similar.

    Fuel pump??? Would probably be okay. I can't imagine a pump needing a huge amount of current to run.
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    Re: R1 Wiring Help
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    Thank you.

    I found a post on R1-forum about bypassing the ignition switch, and there was someone with a 04-06 R1 that wanted to get rid of the key switch for a track bike. He used the GSXR instuctions and said he got it to work. I believe the resistor is correct, but the wiring calls for wiring the ECU wire to the ground wire with the resistor. But the R1 doesnt have a Ground wire in its main switch, so Im very confused as to what to do. Can you make sense of what they are doing? I dont really want to run everything off the Stop/Run switch like they did, just want to have a simple toggle for IGN.

    Here is the how to for the GSXR. "Maybe" i just need to find the right wire colors???

    Parts:

    100 Ohm Resistor, 1/2 watt, 5% tolerance: Radio Shack part 271-1108
    18-20 Gauge Wire (two different colors)
    Electrical Tape

    I soldered all of the connections. If you would rather use connectors and
    a crimping tool, you will need to have a supply on hand. I am not sure how
    one would install the resistor with out a soldering iron.

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Here is the legend for the various wires involved in the re-wiring:

    Wire Colors and Functions (Right Handle Switch (Kill Switch)):

    O/B (Orange with Black Tracer) -- Kill Switch
    O/W (Orange with White Tracer) --

    Wire Colors and Functions (Key Switch):

    Br (Brown) - Tail Light
    B/W (Black with White Tracer) - Ground
    Gr (Gray) - Instrument Cluster Light and Horn
    O (Orange) - Ignition
    O/W (Orange with White Tracer) - Cooling Fan
    O/Y (Orange with Yellow Tracer) - ECU
    R (Red) - Power (+12v)

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Removal:

    The first step is to remove the two wiring harnesses that will be
    modified: the key switch and the right clip-on switch cluster. Find and
    disconnect the connectors that connect these harnesses to the main wiring
    harness. The key switch has two connectors along the right frame spar.
    The right clip-on switch cluster has a connector just in front of the
    radiator on the right side. You will have to open some zip ties and a
    clamp to get the harnesses free.

    To remove the key switch, you will have to take off the top triple clamp
    and remove the two tamper resistant Torx bolts. I do not have the correct
    Torx bits so I drilled the heads of the bolts off. To remove the right
    clip-on switch cluster, you will need to disconnect the throttle cables
    from the cluster.

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Key Switch Harness Modification:

    This one is actually quite simple. Start by cutting all the wires 2" from
    the main connector. Cut the Br and Gr wires at the connector so they are
    slightly recessed since they will not be used. Cut the O/Y and B/W wires
    to 1" in length and solder a lead of the 100 Ohm resistor to each wire.
    Insulate the wires and resistor with Electrical tape to keep the O/Y and
    B/W wires and resistor leads from touching. Leave the R and O wires at 2"
    for now.

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Right Clip-on Switch Cluster Harness Modification:

    The goal here is to re-wire this harness so the circuit the kill switch
    normally controls is always connected (run) and to have two wires coming
    out of the harness connected to the kill switch.

    In the run position, the kill switch completes a circuit between the O/B
    and O/W wires. The O/W wire actually connects to the starter button and
    the kill switch. A "Y" is formed about 4 inches down the wiring harness
    from the switch. Cut into the sheath and find where the O/W wire forms the
    "Y" and cut the O/W wire that leads to the kill switch. Cut the O/B wire
    at the same point in the harness and solder it to the O/W running to the
    Starter Switch. Run a pair of wires through the sheath and connect them to
    the O/W and and O/B wires from the kill switch. Leave about 3" of wire
    hanging out from the sheath at the connector end. Use electrical tape to
    insulate all of the connections and to cover the cut in the sheath.

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Putting it All Together:

    Take the key switch harness and right clip-on switch cluster harness
    connectors and plug them into the corresponding connectors on the main
    wiring harness. Look at the R and O wires coming from the key switch
    harness and the two unconnected wires coming from the right clip-on switch
    cluster harness. If needed, cut the appropriate amount of wire from the
    right clip-on switch cluster harness to allow for an uncluttered
    connection.

    Unplug the key switch harness and right clip-on switch cluster harness
    connectors. Connect the R wire from the key switch harness to an
    unconnected wire from the right clip-on switch cluster harness. Connect
    the O wire from the key switch harness to the other unconnected wire from
    the right clip-on switch cluster harness. Use electrical tape to insulate
    all of the connections.

    Put the kill switch in the "stop" position and plug the connectors in
    again. Put the kill switch in the "run" position. The bike should power on
    and be ready to start. Try starting the bike. If it starts, you are just
    about done.

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Finishing Up:

    Reinstall the right clip-on switch cluster and clean up the wiring harness
    connections.

    That's it......
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