2005 Hayabusa in a Barracuda - Won't start

[RickS.]

I seems like that info should be in the service manual. You may have to look hard to find it, but it should be there. Isn't the service manual what a Suzuki service tech would also be using to troubleshoot the system?

[Lance-W]

Still doesn't run. Anybody have any ideas?

[Bullnerd]

1)Make friends with local busa expert, have him stop by for a beer.
2)Find a good busa website.
3)Take it to a local zooki dealer and try to pry some answers out of their busa expert for free,while they stare at your awesome craftsmanship in awe!

[Lance-W]

Originally Posted by Bullnerd

1)Make friends with local busa expert, have him stop by for a beer.
2)Find a good busa website.
3)Take it to a local zooki dealer and try to pry some answers out of their busa expert for free,while they stare at your awesome craftsmanship in awe!

1) Don't know who he is ?????????
2) I searched Busasandrail is who I came up with
3) Dude, this is California. People aren't friendly like that out here. Or at least total strangers aren't !!!!!!!!!!! I would gladly help someone out but people like me are unfortunately few and far between out here in the land of fruits and nuts!!!!!!!!

[rowycoracing]

The ECU will want the following conditions to be satisfied before it will supply spark and fuel:

1) Anti theft circuit satisfied (it is in the key switch so you should be OK if you have the key switch)

2) Tip over switch in place or proper resistor in it's place. Can't just be jumped.

3) Clutch pulled in (or clutch switch jumpered). Use a switch so you can switch back to "clutch out" when running to get full power from the engine.

4) Kill switch off.

The engine should start even if the side stand switch isn't jumpered. But when you go to put it in gear the ECU will kill the engine if it thinks the stand is down. When all the circuits are satisfied the fuel pump should kick on for about 4-5 seconds when you first turn the ignition on, then stop. It will kick on again when you crank the engine.

[Lance-W]

Originally Posted by rowycoracing

The ECU will want the following conditions to be satisfied before it will supply spark and fuel:

1) Anti theft circuit satisfied (it is in the key switch so you should be OK if you have the key switch)

2) Tip over switch in place or proper resistor in it's place. Can't just be jumped.

3) Clutch pulled in (or clutch switch jumpered). Use a switch so you can switch back to "clutch out" when running to get full power from the engine.

4) Kill switch off.

The engine should start even if the side stand switch isn't jumpered. But when you go to put it in gear the ECU will kill the engine if it thinks the stand is down. When all the circuits are satisfied the fuel pump should kick on for about 4-5 seconds when you first turn the ignition on, then stop. It will kick on again when you crank the engine.

1) Yes I have a factory switch. Not the original to the motor but a factory switch never the less.

2) Factory tip over switch in place. Oriented correctly.

3) Clutch switch is functional and hooked up t the clutch pedal. It won't crank without it.

4) Kill switch is wired correctly. It's normally closed according to the schematic I have. It opens to kill the engine.

No fuel pump

[Sandaholic]

It doesnt happen often but I did have a bad ECU a couple years ago and it would not turn the pump on, replaced the ECU and rail fired rite up....just a thought.

[busasandrail]

I would check the fuel pump relay circuit...
On the fuel pump relay there are four terminals on it. Two are for the fuel pump and two are for the coil. Of the four, the two for the fuel pump should be fused power to one side of it, verify you have 12v. and the other wire goes to the fuel pump, verify that the wire is good to the pump (12v pos). And the other two connections, one has ignition power which comes on when the key turns on and lastly the ground for the relay coil comes for the CPU. If you have a volt meter unplug the relay, hook up to the coil power for the relay (its the two smaller sized wires), cycle the key on and see if you get 12v at the connector.

If you hooked up the fuel pump wiring to the wrong wires it wouldnt work either. There are four wires in the 05 fuel pump connector two are for the pump and two are for the fuel gauge, verify that you are connected to the proper two wires.

Also who did your harness?

Let us know what you find.

[Lance-W]

Originally Posted by busasandrail

I would check the fuel pump relay circuit...
On the fuel pump relay there are four terminals on it. Two are for the fuel pump and two are for the coil. Of the four, the two for the fuel pump should be fused power to one side of it, verify you have 12v. and the other wire goes to the fuel pump, verify that the wire is good to the pump (12v pos). And the other two connections, one has ignition power which comes on when the key turns on and lastly the ground for the relay coil comes for the CPU. If you have a volt meter unplug the relay, hook up to the coil power for the relay (its the two smaller sized wires), cycle the key on and see if you get 12v at the connector.

If you hooked up the fuel pump wiring to the wrong wires it wouldnt work either. There are four wires in the 05 fuel pump connector two are for the pump and two are for the fuel gauge, verify that you are connected to the proper two wires.

Also who did your harness?

Let us know what you find.

The power wires (Y/R and R/BL) to the pump from the relay are good and there is power on the R/BL wire. I know this because I pulled the relay out and checked it by jumpering the "switched" wires and the fuel pump ran.
I have not verified whether it is getting coil power O/W but the coilpacks have power so I assume the O/W wire at the fuel pump relay has power as they're all fed by the same source. Which to me makes it obvious that the computer is not sending the ground side of the circiut to the fuel relay coil.

The wires are all hooked up correctly. I used a factory harness with all the factory connectors which make it fairly impossibly to screw up the wiring.

A couple of questions for you though. I tried to jumper the mode connector into "dealer mode" and it did nothing. Dead ECU? Also when the instrument panel powers up the temp gauge is pegged at hot? Fuel gauge works great. There is also a "CHECK" indication in the top window of the instrument panel. Which I would assume means the ECU is throwing a code? This leads me to beleive that the ECU is ok? Whcih directly contradicts the no dealer mode problem.

[busasandrail]

Check the realy coil power and verify..... And if I rememeber right the fuel pump has its one power source seprate for the coil packs.
Also I know you said you checked this but double check you tip over switch and make sure it oriented the correct way. If upside down it will cause this problem. And while at it shake the tip over switch and make sure you hear a rattling noise. Maybe the ring is stuck inside the unit. And if you want install the 64k ohm resistor in the connector to bypass the switch.