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Originally Posted by headinclouds
knowledge is power, and I feel like I am going to a mental gym and lifting weights with some built people!
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LOL!!! That's one of the best comments I've seen in a long time.
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Originally Posted by headinclouds
How can I get a diagram of all the other wires I can cut off the whole harness?
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You should probably just go get a Service Manual from Suzuki for the bike the engine came from. It's probaby a good idea to have the Service Manual anyhow - so if/when you have any problems with the engine, you can figure out how to fix 'em.
There should be a fully color coded layout of the bike's wiring in the service manual. A lot of it will be self explanitory as to what can be removed just by studying the diagram.
Many times components (such as lights, signals and such) are on their own loom that plugs into the main harness - easy to remove and shouldn't cause issues with the ECU.
Sometimes it's pretty tricky figuring out exactly what can and can't stay - so read each component's section carefully.
A lot of times you can figure out how to bypass a particular circuit by reading the range a component must be in. An example is an oil level sensor in my car - Yamaha RX1 sled engine with R1 fuel injection.
I had to trick the R1's ECU into thinking the RX1's sender was the R1's by changing resistance (inserting a resistor) across the sensing leads. Never would have figured it out if I hadn't had the manual for both machines.
Took the Service manuals to make this:
look like this:
If you're really into making everything work well, then take your time - get the proper connectors and tools to do the job.
Remember, the more planning and layout work you do, the better it all comes out. Take your time and work on laying out all your wires before you actually start cutting and such.
A few things to follow:
Don't use electrical tape to cover connections - solder and heat shrink.
I don't use electrical tape anywhere except to hold the wires together before I wrap them in heat shrink...
Try not to extend wires, replace them with the correct length wire instead.
Make sure that all looms have the ability to move a bit - at least near the ends of the looms where they go into components or connectors.
Any time you cut a wire - especially when splicing - you open the wire to corrosion. Solder the connection, cover the joint with di-electric grease and then cover w/heat shrink.
Cover each loom with heat shrink from end to end - leave it about 2" from each end of the loom - lets the wires move around w/o stress. Make sure stuff can move a bit or it will vibrate itself apart.
Use a silver sharpie and write a description of each loom on the heat shrink before you shrink it.
Packard's Weather Pack and Metri-Pack connectors are pricy, but well worth it - I get mine from [url=http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L0B27246958508200B3DB072+M37+ENG :3e7qvttl]Waytec[/url:3e7qvttl]
They are water-resistant, the pins are stress relieving type - they clamp on the bare wire and also hold onto the insulation. They are easy to assemble and they just plain work well.