.I had to remove the one cross bar because of the Engine placment and I do want to build the new bracing around the engine. I do not want to go too tight to the motor though as I want to make it a less of effort to install or remove the engine. The RC 51 is a long engine. Probably one of the longest V-twins because of the 90 degree configuration. I actually thing fitting a Busa engine to this frame would be easier.
I made some great progress today but almost got ahead of myself. I tacked up the rear upper frame with the uprights that connect it to the PIRCV housing. As things were moving along so smoothly, I fully welded the uprights. Then I stood back and noticed how crooked they were. To the untrained eye it would probably go unnoticed *but as I am picky I took out the sawzall, cutoff wheel, and 3 ratchet straps to trim & pull it all straight again then reweld. I am very happy now and the cause was I accidently left one end of my main frame about 3/16" longer than the other. It was about a 1/2 hr set back. I could have stared at it a bit longer but the more I did all it did was piss me off. I figure... I could stare at it all day but why stare and woder what went wrong when I could just start cutting and grinding untill it is fixed. It is perfect now and all is right on track. I hate it when one bar is off. It is so easy for everythingelst to get off course then.
After fixing that issue I started to make the uprights that attach to the lower frame in front of the PIRCV Housing. I knew I was going to have to add a X-tube for the install and removal of my Idler bolt so I got that sorted out. I also knew that my Engine would foul on the right side so somthing was going to have to be done there. I marked it out and found that the best way was a long narrow notch in the tube that contours the engine. Tomorrow I will begin more engine mounts. Thanks for your input guys. Please keep checking back.
This Tube is not as week as it appears! The circular notch is only half the depth into the tube and what you cant see is that the engine actually straddles this part of the notch. I know that does not make much sence to some of you so I will try and get pics of this tomorrow. There is also more clearance on the bolt lug than the picture showes. Must be the angle.
Compare this picture to the above one.
The red line represents where the origianl tube was.
The yellow line represents the notching for the engine toward the camera.
The blue line is where the notch is behind the bolt lug in the casting that is difficult to see. Hope you can make sence of it. I just dont want anyone thinking this may be a weak spot. I may brace the back sides of the tubes in these areas.
I also wanted to point out my little idea to help those of you who dont have a 3rd hand in the shop. I decided to tack on these little pieces of angle iron to create a pocket for the upper frame to sit in at the main hoop. This way it was easier to handle by myself.
